REVIEW | Mughli, Knutsford

I’ve always had a tendency to have eyes bigger than my belly. I used to admire those who could be “sensible” and just order or eat enough to satisfy them, without going overboard.

But there is also something so brilliant about feasting, isn’t there?

Every once in a while just saying “sod it” and ordering whatever it is you want from the menu, and lots of it.

Mughli in Knutsford is a place you can do that. On my last visit there, almost 4 years ago, it was nothing like it’s cooler, more streetwise, Rusholme-older brother. The curry-mile flagship restaurant has a much more laid back vibe, full of quirky Indian interiors and home to their famous ‘charcoal pits’.

In Knutsford however, they have a more contemporary vibe. Clean white lines, neon strip lighting. But I noticed something different, the menu had gotten a little… edgier.

They seemed to have switched things up a bit, and I don’t just mean the techno house playlist. Since my last visit, they’ve introduced dishes from their Rusholme charcoal pits; small plates and more tandoori goodness. To differentiate themselves from the other Indians in town, perhaps. A great move, I say.

I was gutted to learn their Alderley Edge restaurant Railway Kitchen had to close down later last year. I guess the rents were too high and it was only a small space so perhaps not worth the investment, but it was one of my favourite places to eat in Cheshire. But, I was happy to see some of their dishes on the menu at Mughli. It was time to decide what to eat…

At the bar, we were greeted and decided to stay there for a drink before we sat down.

I ordered first, a g&t, it was a lovely drink, but I’d finished it before the last in our group of six got served. Do I drink fast? Or was the barman really slow? Either way, I’m glad we saved the initial ‘cheers’ for the table, otherwise that would have been awkward… 😉

The lads (who frequently go to Rusholme) raved about the mixed grill starter from the charcoal pit menu. Literally for weeks. “It’s unreal,” they said. So much so, that one of them once had it for his starter and then again for his main (crazy person alert) so, us girls thought “why not.”

So between six of us, we shared two large mixed grills and the lamb samosas. We almost instantly agreed with the lads. It was amazing! Lamb chops, chicken tikka, lamb koftas, all charred and grilled to juicy to perfection piled onto a naan bread and topped with crispy red cabbage. Heavenly. The spicy lamb koftas were my fave and the samosas were really great too. And the naan bread that’s soaked in all the meat juices? SO DAMN GOOD! 🚀🚀🚀🚀

I do need to say at this point, however, that the service was so lacking. It wasn’t ‘bad’ but it was not at all great. We had to ask for clean plates between courses, ask for drinks orders to be taken, and even for empty glasses to be removed from the table to make room for the scran. I think it was more so a lack of confidence from the waiting on team. Perhaps they were new. But we did, all, notice it, unfortunately!

Following the mighty mixed grill starter, I’d ordered the Goan fish curry and a buttered roti. The portion was generous, the flavours were fragrant and full and the fish was juicy and well cooked.

The curry was delicious; but next time, I’m going to go full small plates mode. After all, that is my favourite way to dine; eating lots of small dishes and maximising the number of flavours-tried and variety!

There are some great sounding dishes on that section of the menu; I can’t wait to go back and try some more. Ginger-spiced squid, Keralan fried chicken, gunpowder fries and a tamarind & lime salad? Yes, please 😋🙌🏻

www.mughli.com